This fish tank stand is made from high-quality materials, including solid wood construction and steel hardware. The tank has a large capacity for holding up to 50 gallons of water, which means that it can accommodate the most common aquariums on the market today. The stand has four adjustable shelves, so you can easily customize the layout of your tank depending on what type of accessories or decorations you want to use.
The Half Moon Fish Tank Stand comes in two stylish colors: white and espresso. It also features a clear glass top with polished edges for an elegant look that will make your living room look amazing!
How to build a half-moon fish tank stand.
- Grab the plans and materials.
- Cut the material.
- Assemble the stand.
- Stain and varnish the stand.
- Attach the trim piece to the front of the stand.
- Attach shelves to both sides of the stand with brad nails.
- Attach the fish tank to the back of the stand using wood glue, clamps for a tight fit, then screws for a secure hold. Allow 24-48 hours for drying time before attaching the fish tank lid and filling the tank with water.
- (1) ¾ inch plywood cut to size (We used a 4’ x 8’ x ¾ inch sheet of birch plywood for this project.)
- (2) 2X4 cut to length
- screws/bolts/washers or drywall screws and drywall anchors
- 1X4 cut to length
¾ inch plywood cut to size
- Most plywood is 4’ x 8’.
- Pick the right plywood for this project (otherwise it will warp).
- Decide the size of the tank stand you want to build.
- Figure out how much plywood you need by multiplying the length by width and dividing that number by 32 (a 4’ x 8’ sheet contains 32 square feet).
- Cut plywood to size with a circular saw or jigsaw (as long as it’s not too big, like 3’x4′).
- Measure and mark where to cut with a speed square, pencil, and tape measure so that your cuts are as accurate as possible! Make sure you make marks on both sides of the wood so that when you go to cut it, you can see which side needs to be up if one side has writing on it or if it’s warped or something along those lines; this ensures your cuts are accurate!
2X4 cut to length
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- Screws and bolts should be appropriate for the material they’re joining. For example, screws with a flat point are best used in wood, while sheet metal screws are ideal for use with metal surfaces.
- The right screw or bolt will also be sturdy enough to withstand pressure without breaking or shearing off.
- Finally, it’s important to select a resistant material that will hold up well in various environments and conditions.
- Select the appropriate anchor for the wall material.
- Select the appropriate drill bit for the anchor you are using.
- Pre-drill the hole.
- Tap the anchor into the hole.
1X4 cut to length
1×4 cut to length
You’re going to need some wood that is the same width as your plywood or trim. Cut this board down with a table saw to the length of your plywood, or if you are using trim, the length of your trim. This type of wood will help hold up your plywood, or trim and make it easier to assemble and secure in place.
1.5-inch wide wood strips for the trim (or you can substitute ¼ inch plywood or 3/8 plywood)
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Wood glue is used to bond wood. Use a PVA glue like Titebond III for strength and durability.
Stain, Varathane, and paintbrushes (optional – if you are opting for a stained finish)
Applying the stain was a fun process. I used two coats of Minwax’s Dark Walnut stain on mine. The stains come in liquid form and come with either a foam brush (which is what I used) or a paintbrush. If you are opting for paint, then buy your brushes now. You want to make sure your strokes go in the same direction as the grain and that they’re long strokes, taking care to not leave any visible brush marks behind. Once you have stained all of your pieces, it is time to move on to applying your Varathane.
The varathane acts as a sealer for your wood so that the stain does not wear off easily and also gives it a nice finish so that it doesn’t look so dull anymore. This part can be done with either a foam brush or paintbrush (I used foam). It dries surprisingly fast, but I would still suggest giving each coat at least four hours to dry before applying another coat since there are going to be multiple layers applied here. I did three coats of varathane on mine just because I wanted an extra glossy finish, but this step can be completely skipped if you are opting for a painted piece instead of a stained one!
If you are painting your stand like me, then once all three coats of varathane have dried completely apply two coats of white or cream-colored acrylic paint! Let the first coat dry completely before applying the second one; otherwise it will start peeling off quickly when you try to apply another layer over it while it is still wet!
Sandpaper or Orbital sander (optional – if you are opting for stained finish)
Sandpaper can be used to smooth the surface of your wood, or if you have one, an orbital sander works great. You will need 80 grit, 150 grit, and 220 grit sandpaper. Start with the 80 grit sandpaper and make sure to remove any rough spots on your wood. When you are done with the 80 grit paper wipe off the dust that has accumulated on your project with a damp cloth and then move on to the 150 grit. Use this sanding step to smooth out any scratches from the previous 80 grit sanding step. After wiping off any dust from your project move on to the finer 220 grit paper for a final smoothing out of any remaining scratches or imperfections.
Shelf Brackets and screws (optional – if you are opting for the open shelving option)
Tools you will need:
- Wood glue
- Stain (optional)
- Paint (optional)
- Sanding blocks, in a range of grits (100, 120, 180)
- Brushes and/or varnish sponges
Materials you will need:
- Post-it notes (for labeling measured cuts as you work and keeping track of what goes where)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil and eraser
- Hammer or mallet (for tapping the last few stubborn nails into plank ends that are being stubborn)
- Drill with appropriate drill bits (for pre-drilling holes for screws to go in – drilling pilot holes prevents splitting your wood; for hanging pegboard if using pegboard on the back panel; for pre-drilling holes to attach legs to bottom panel).
The cost of materials and labor will likely be the largest expense when building your own fish tank stand. If you’re going to use cheap materials or make a stand that’s not as sturdy, this might not be as big of a concern, but if you’re using good quality lumber or hiring someone else to do the work for you, then the price will add up.
If you want to save money on your fish tank stand, then consider using cheaper materials such as plywood instead of solid wood. You could even use recycled materials from other projects! If you don’t need it to look pretty on top of being functional, then there are many options available for making an inexpensive DIY fishtank stand that won’t cost much more than buying one already made.
How to build a half-moon fish tank stand
- MATERIALS & TOOLS
- Cut the pieces
- Assemble the frame (Image 1)
- Sand down the frame (Image 2) and apply a stain or finish of your choice (Images 3-4).
- Assemble the half-circle legs, supports, and post caps as shown below in Image 5. These will attach to each corner of the main stand, with two post caps used to support each leg assembly as shown below in Image 6 (note that you may need to trim down one of your post caps so it sits flush inside another). The dimensions given for these pieces are ideal for a 30-gallon aquarium, but if you have a different size tank, you can adjust them accordingly using our Stand Dimensions Chart: Link here
- Attach the legs using pocket screws as shown below in Image 7. You will want to use glue when attaching these legs as well to securely fasten them together and keep things from moving around over time once they’re under load from your fish tank’s water weight. After attaching all four legs, flip it right side up again and move it into place next to your aquarium!