The big, lovable Giant Chinchilla rabbit is one of three breeds of chinchilla rabbits that is accepted by the American Rabbit Breeders’ Association (ARBA). All three breeds make great family pets, but the Giant Chinchilla in particular, if handled carefully, can become a calm, well-adjusted member of any family menagerie.Over the next few years, distinct lines were drawn between the Standard Chinchilla (the smallest of the three), the American or Heavyweight Chinchilla, and the Giant Chinchilla Rabbit. All three breeds are hardy and stocky, but their sizes vary widely. The unmistakable bulk of the Giant Chinchilla has arisen from crossbreeding between the Chinchilla and the Flemish Giant in early efforts to produce a large rabbit for meat.
The silvery chinchilla bunny was originally bred in France for its meat and fur, and the French version was introduced in the United States in 1919. The American Giant Chinchilla was developed in 1921 by a man named Edward Stahl from Holmes Park, Missouri. Stahl predicted the breed would be a hit in the American fur business, but its small size would restrict its viability. While other breeders in the industry focused on increasing the weight of the American Chinchilla Rabbit, Stahl wanted to create a “Giant Chinchilla.” Stahl began experimenting in the basement at home and determined a cross between the White Flemish Rabbit and American Blue Rabbit would offer good coloring as they grew larger, and crossbreeding this selection would begin. In 1921, on Christmas morning, a Chinchilla doe Stahl considered to be the masterpiece of hard work was born. The doe was dubbed the “Million Dollar Princess.
- When young, the Giant Chinchilla grows quickly, weighing between 5 to 6 pounds at 8 weeks and 7 to 9 pounds at 12 weeks.
- Fully grown bucks should weigh a minimum of 12 pounds, with does weighing about 1 to 2 pounds heavier than bucks. Babies grow fast, and by the time a Giant Chinchilla approaches maturity, there’s no mistaking their presence in a room.
- They should have straight, erect ears.
- They should possess powerful legs and feet.
- They should have a soft, white underbelly. The silvery topcoat should show distinctive rings when it’s lifted up (or petted backward) since each hair shaft contains five distinct bands of color in a pattern of blue, pearl, black, white, and black.
Indoor enclosures need to be large enough for your rabbit to comfortably stretch out to its full length, plus have room leftover. These enclosures need to be made of wire and should have a solid bottom made of either metal or plastic in order for bedding to be placed. This bedding needs to be spot-cleaned for cleanliness every day and completely replaced at the end of every week.
Standard Chinchillas are susceptible to problems such as overgrown teeth, flystrike, and ear mites. Rabbit owners need to check their rabbit’s ears every 2-3 weeks for mites.
- Selection of prime stock is the initial and most basic step toward the success or failure of a rabbit operation. Naturally, an animal’s appearance will play a major factor in the process of selection. Other essential requirements are health, vigor, longevity, ability to reproduce, and desirable type and conformation.
- Medium and large breeds, such as New Zealand, California, Dutch Gray, English Spot, Chinchilla, and Flemish Giant, have the most suitable size and conformation for producing meat and fur. White breeds of rabbits (e.g., New Zealand White and Californian) are the most prolific and the most desirable for commercial and fur production because white skins usually bring higher prices.
- Rabbit can be fed with pellets, grasses like elephant grass, fresh maize and leaves, lettuce, cabbage potatoes and leaves, carrots, dried cassava peels, yam peels, banana, and leaves.
- Simple food formation includes: Maize bran, groundnuts, millets or wheat, and alfalfa…all properly mixed together.
- Our weaners are always given recommended medications at four weeks old (anti-biotics and multivitamins) and these should be repeated every four weeks.
- However, overall, the primary criterion remains the rabbit’s records. It is vitally important to study records on family production, hereditary factors, size of animals, growth potential, etc. Therefore, purchase your foundation stock from a reliable and established rabbitry that keeps such records.
- Pellets are preferable to mashes because the rabbits waste less (they are unable to paw them out of the crocks as easily). Also, they are not dusty so they won’t irritate the nose and lungs.
- If you must use a mash, you can avoid the crustiness and reduce some waste by adding just enough water to slightly moisten the feed. However, beware of giving too much-moistened feed to the rabbit or leaving it in the pen too long as it will sour and the rabbit will not eat it, causing further waste. In the low lands where fermentation is more prevalent, give the rabbits only enough concentrates to be consumed within a 10- to the 15-minute time span.
Chinchilla Rabbit Price
$40.00 to $150.00